Wednesday, September 9, 2009

The “Eisheiligen”—Being Cold in Africa


When Reid was finally awarded the Fulbright and we had to make decisions about what to bring with us to Namibia, we did a bit of research into the climate. We knew that Namibia, being a desert country, was prone to some pretty low temps especially at nighttime. The statistics indicated that during the Winter (June-August here) nighttime temps typically fell around the freezing mark (0 degrees Celsius). Daytime temps however were quite mild according to the literature—hovering in the upper teens and low twenties Celsius (50’s & 60’s F). We thus packed a few sweaters and light jackets. We did not even consider heavy duty pjs or coats. What with Reid being the packing Nazi that he was, we were lucky to make it here with enough underwear in tow. Upon arrival in December, mid-summer, we were glad we had brought our Louisiana cottons and clothing of other light weight fabrics. With the approach of winter, many of our Namibian acquaintances kept telling us to brace ourselves. We tended to down play it, after all being from the Northern Hemisphere and Reid a native Iowan to boot, it would take snow and ice to scare us, a most unusual sight in Namibia to say the least. Little did we understand, however, the ways of Namibian construction. Most of the houses here are built with the heat in mind. Walls are made of thick brick that are designed to keep the interior cool. The exterior is usually painted a light color so as to reflect the sunlight. Windows are just basically panes of glass and don’t do much to resist either the cold or heat. Insulation as we know it is virtually non-existent here. The term furnace as a household item does not exist in the Namibian vocabulary. So when the Namibians experience freezing temperatures; it is not only freezing outside, it’s literally freezing inside as well! Literally!

To try and keep warm during this time, we’d turn the oven on and open the door to let the heat warm the living space of our tiny flat. We baked a good bit (needless to say, I’ve put on a few pounds as a result) but we finally had to succumb and purchase blankets and an electric space heater even though we’ve been trying hard not to spend money on things that we’ll just be leaving behind in a few months time. Finally the first of September drew nigh and we thought we were home free, this date being the first day of Spring in the Southern Hemisphere.

As if by magic, plants and trees that looked utterly spent have begun to sprout leaves and the most exquisite and exotic blossoms. We’ve had to really rethink our understanding of the workings of the natural world during this time. For us in the Northern Hemisphere who understand that April showers bring May flowers, we are taken aback with the complete lack of rain prior to the onslaught of Spring. It hasn’t rained in months and won’t do so we’re told until November and yet trees have begun to green up and the flowers are popping out everywhere. Nights had begun to get warmer too. We had even broken a sweat at the first session of baseball practice we’d conducted at WIS. But lo and behold today we are experiencing what older Namibians refer to as the Eisheiligen. I’m not sure the origin of the word, whether German or Africaaner, but it roughly translates as the Ice Saints. Suddenly, the wind has begun to blow up from the South (yes, it’s the South wind that brings the cold here) and we’ve had to break out the sweaters again. I’m on my third warm beverage this morning and I can’t feel my toes in my shoes at the moment. We’ve got baseball practice again this afternoon and I hope the wind mellows before we get out on the field to toss the ball around. The Eisheiligen, we’re told won’t last long and the lovely spring weather should return shortly but a true Louisianian, I like my weather warm!

Please take note, with the Spring came the return to Daylight Saving Time here, so we are now 7 hours ahead of Central Time/ Louisiana & Iowa time. That is until you guys go back to standard time in October when the differential will again change!

Photo above: Annie celebrates her 6th birthday on a lovely Namibian Spring Day. We'd have been sweltering back in Louisiana.

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