Friday, December 11, 2009

Fishing and Kayaking in Swakopmund




Went fishing again while here in Swakopmund with Terrence Clark our favorite guide. Caught a number of sharks from three different species: Bronzee, Spotted Gully Shark, a muscle Shark. Caught so many cob that we’ve been eating it for the past three days. Delicious stuff. Forgot to put sun screen on our feet—this is surf fishing so of course one is on the beach with his toes exposed----and even though it was overcast most of the day, the top of Reid’s feet got so burnt they’re blistering. Annie had a blast chasing waves again and examining each catch with the eye of a scientist. I even gave it a go for a while, but didn’t have the stamina to stay with the 2.24 m, 75 kg Bronzee that was on the other end of the line.

Today we did the Kayak Tour of Walvis Bay. It was a bit disappointing because we didn’t get to see any dolphins nor whales. We did see loads of flamingos and those stinky cape fur seals again. It was a bit chilly and we had an early start of it so the girls complained about being cold. Augustus manned his kayak alone and did manage to get the hang of it by the end. Annie and I were paired and we just kind of took it slow. We did have fun paddling about in the bay and saw tons and tons of jelly fish—apparently a by-product of global warming and over fishing.

Our guide was a young fellow named François duToit. The duToit family name can be found throughout South Africa and Namibia. The first duToit to arrive back in the mid-1600’s were fleeing religious persecution as they were Huguenots (Protestants) seeking a better life outside of war ravaged Catholic France. It was a bit strange chatting with him since there are virtually no vestiges of French culture left among the family who’ve been so totally assimilated into the lifestyle of Southern Africa. We in Louisiana are rather proud of our French heritage and work hard at trying to preserve it………

Tuesday, December 8, 2009

Tommy's Living Desert Tours




Went out into the Namib with Tommy Collard of Tommy’s Living Desert Tours. It was truly like being on NatGeo Wild or Animal Planet. Tommy drove this souped up LandRover through the dunes that end at the edge of the city of Swakopmund. He reads the “Bushman Newspaper” i.e. the faint tracks in the sand to locate all of these fascinating creatures that inhabit the seemingly desolate Namib Desert, the world’s oldest. When he spots something, he jumps out of the Rover and starts digging like a rabid dog and pulls up such interesting beasties as a Fitzsimmons Burrowing Skink, or a sand-diving Lizard or the Palmato Gecko. The Namaqua Chameleon was the most appealing of the bunch and sat in everyone’s hands very obediently. He even ate mealie worms right out of Tommy’s lips. I did get a bit frightened when Tommy fished a Peringuey’s Adder (sidewinder, yes exceedingly venemous) out of one of the desert bushes and started handling it very close to the girls. The girls were un-fazed and of course Emma volunteered to hold everything—not in the least bit squeamish. Tommy said she was one tough little girl. She sure enjoyed the “adulation.” We had a terrific time, learned loads about the Namib and flat out enjoyed going over the dunes. It’s definitely an excursion everyone who visits Swakopmund should undertake.

Monday, December 7, 2009

Cape Cross



We are spending our last weeks in Namibia in Swakopmund. We thought that would be an appropriate Grand Finale to our Namibian Adventure. We arrived on Saturday to stay in our favorite beach house in Vineta. Vineta is a nice neighborhood located at the northern part of the city. On our way, Karin, the woman who keeps an eye on the place texted us to tell us, “the geyser has given up the ghost!” The geyser, by the way is the hot water tank, so when we arrived, the repair people were on their way to install a new tank, I mean geyser. I’m always tickled when I hear such expressions. Not to worry, they didn’t bother us as we made our way to the supermarket and most importantly, THE BEACH. Love being able to say we’re spending a week at the beach in the middle of December.
Swakopmund, although situated at the edge of the Namib desert is usually always cool. This is why people vacate Windhoek in droves to come here during the summer stickiness. The Benguela current is responsible for the cool westerly breeze that characterizes the area and the chilly, chilly water. The Benguela rises up from Antarctica. Frequently, the rising cool air off of the ocean colliding with the desert warmth will produce a heavy fog that shrouds everything in greyness and it was indeed one of those grey days when we arrived. Sunday also presented itself in the same manner, so we headed up the coast to Cape Cross to see the seal colony. By afternoon though, the fog had burned off and it turned out to be quite marvelous.
Cape Cross is noted as being one of the first places that Europeans ever set foot in Southern Africa. Diogo Cao, a famous Portuguese seaman, erected a cross here in honor of John I of Portugal. The cross was later “appropriated” by the Germans who recognized its historical value and now it sits in some German museum back in Europe. The cross that currently resides there is a replica. We took pictures of it anyway since we’ll probably never make it to Germany to see the real thing.
What makes Cape Cross interesting , though, is that it is home to the largest population of Cape Fur Seals in the world: 80,000-100,000 at any given time. Cape Fur Seals are actually a type of sea lion according to scientists. The way they can tell is that they have visible ears, whereas true seals do not. The females give birth in late November and early December, so we got to see the pups: thousands upon thousands of seal pups. The stench emitted by all of these clustered mammals is indescribable. The combination of ammonia smell from the excrement along with rotting carcasses of pups which have perished due to abandonment, sickness or trampling cannot be conveyed by mere words. This combined with the awful bellowing of mothers who have misplaced their pups or pups who’ve misplaced their mothers or big bulls trying to make themselves seen and heard is truly something that can only be appreciated if experienced firsthand. We managed to withstand it for about a half hour.
There is a picnic area within the reserve, but we were too grossed out to try and partake of any lunch. Additionally, we’d made the mistake of leaving our windows slightly open and Ole Bess was filled with flies—the big green, bottle flies that usually alight on feces. We drove many kilometers with the windows down to blow them out and headed for Henties Bay and the Fishy Corner, family owned restaurant which had been recommended by the Powells. We weren’t disappointed. The food was quite good. It took a bit of time though and we didn’t make it back to Swakop until mid afternoon. By this time, the fog had burned off and we had a nice walk on the beach. Tomorrow, Tommy’s Living Desert Tours!

Tuesday, December 1, 2009

Emma has a summer birthday!



Emma got to celebrate her birthday early this year since school lets out the first week of December for the holidays and most people at WIS return to their home country for the month long holiday. Emma wanted to be able to share her birthday with her friends before they went off on holiday and we repatriated to the States. She was especially delighted that it’s summer here and she could plan a summer activity for her party. She chose a slip n’ slide kind of thingy that the kids really enjoyed. She also had a shark theme for the décor which matched perfectly with the warm weather. There was a great turn out of her friends and everyone seemed to have a good time. We, her parents, were especially thrilled that no one broke anything given that her good friend Sofia had just recently broken her cheek on a similar apparatus!
It’s off to the coast on Saturday for us where we’ll conclude the grand finale of our Namibian Adventure. We scheduled to head home on Dec. 17th!

Sunday, November 29, 2009

Ole Bess declared Roadworthy


Soooooo, Reid returned the next day to NaTIS, after first spending the morning at Minz Garage. Minz, by the way, found nothing out of the ordinary with Ole Bess, but cleaned her up well and wrote out a ticket indicating he had traced the leak. This satisfied the “inspectors” and Ole Bess was declared Roadworthy. Reid was issued the proper documentation and tried to hurriedly make it back to our last session of baseball at WIS. Because he was in such a hurry, he didn’t notice that the one piece of computerized documentation in this whole process was replete with errors. The woman has the thing listed as using petrol/gas when it clearly does not (she's a diesel)---- among other mistakes. Ah Africa! The photo above is of the number of official stamps of the kingdom that we had to collect. We’ll then hand all of this over to the buyer and he’ll have to go about collecting the stamps, signatures and documents that he needs and of course pay the all important fees at each step in turn.

NaTIS, by the way has its own website where one purportedly can download the correct forms and access all the info one needs to know when embarking on this grand adventure. Of course, when one clicks on the links, nothing comes up because it’s still all under construction!
http://www.ra.org.na/VehicleRegistrationAndLicensing.html

Tuesday, November 24, 2009

How to sell a car in Namibia in three easy steps—yeah right!


Selling our vehicle has been an interesting exercise into the inner workings of African bureaucracy. Of course no part of this process is computerized and so one must advance through the steps collecting the all important “official stamp” of the kingdom without which one had better not present himself at the next level. I'd never thought I would come to view American bureaucratic systems as being efficient (at least some of them especially regarding car sales), but this experience has permanently altered my perceptions.

We knew a bit about the process prior to embarking upon this adventure from having purchased the vehicle from an individual in the first place. We knew that a police clearance of the vehicle was the first hoop through which we had to jump. We didn’t know though that the clearance in and of itself consisted of several steps very little of which is explained or indicated by signage or handout or verbal cue. We located the correct building down on Banhof and Independence, parked our vehicle and presented ourselves at several windows to determine what needed to be done. It was basically those who were waiting in line, essentially the customers, who explained the process to us. No one person of course could explain all of the details, so we put it together piecemeal from each of the individuals we encountered along the way. At PHASE ONE, we waited in the vehicle until we could pull into the parking bay. Once parked, we propped the hood like everyone else, we were told we needed to complete a form. The guy with the forms, however was nowhere to be found. Once he did show, and once the form was completed, no one even bothered to look under the hood. The papers were then submitted to some women who sat behind what looked to be end tables in the alcove of the stairwell leading up to the second floor. They stamped the registration form with great enthusiasm. They then indicated that we should wait a few days before proceeding to PHASE TWO of the process.
The following Monday, we presented ourselves at the entrance marked PHASE TWO. Here there were at least posted notices telling the clientele to first go to Office One. Of course, the woman who inhabits Office One was not present. So, we took a seat and waited and waited. Several customers asked if someone would be coming to assist us and were told, “She is coming just now.” Finally, a woman arrived with a liter bottle of a name brand soft drink in tow and entered the office. Reid went in armed with copies of the registration, copies of his passport, his international driver’s license, etc. Our little stack of paperwork had become quite thick. She matched up the names and numbers with the documents, wrote a few things into a notebook and stamped, stamped, stamped.

It was on to Office Two which fortunately was adjacent. Several women inhabited this office and gave us essentially the evil eye when we arrived with our stack of documents. There was not one single object of technology in sight. They too were recording everything by hand in their little notebooks filled with forms and carbon paper. We received a couple of stamps from Dame #1 and a few more stamps from Dame#2 after paying the appropriate fee. When they deduced we were foreigners from the “duh” nature of all of questions, they did drop their air of being put upon and projected a somewhat more friendly attitude, but only somewhat and we ascertained that we needed to go up to the NaTiS (Roads Authority) Bureau in a different section of town to complete the Road Worthiness portion of the process.

Armed with all of our documentation replete with the appropriate stamps, we headed for NaTiS in the Northern Industrial sector of Windhoek. NaTiS is billed as your one-stop transit authority where you can meet all of your transit needs. We now needed to complete the Roadworthiness test to make sure the vehicle is fit for the road. We arrived about 8:10 in the morning, but that was actually a bit late. We should have gotten in line in the wee hours, sort of like waiting for rock concert tickets to go on sale, so that we’d have been up there in the queue. As it was, we were clueless as to which queue we needed to line up in. The guides directing us spoke little to no English, they grabbed one of the clients who translated. We were in the wrong queue. Additionally, another form needed to be procured and completed. We headed for the right queue behind a retaining wall. To our surprise, the wall was hiding a mass of cars equivalent to a 50 meter section of Los Angeles freeway traffic during the rush hour standstill. It was already 35 degrees Celsius and no cars were advancing.

Reid went to retrieve the correct form. He returned to our car to fill it out and then headed back to the “office” to pay the fee. He returned yet again, but without the form, just the receipt for payment. Everyone around us though seemed to have the form in hand. What to do? Absolutely no signage even hinting at the process. A couple of guys wearing uniform shirts with the logo of some local car dealerships stood ahead of us in line, surely they’d know what to do. Indeed, one kind young gentleman named Vernon took us in hand and ran our document down for us. He then proceeded to explain the process in intricate detail. It appears he does this everyday for a living for the car dealership where he works. Bless him! He even filled out some of the missing info on the form for us.

The inspection process, and that’s all the Road Worthiness test essentially is, took place in three steps. After several hours of waiting and advancing in tiny increments, we finally encountered the first “inspector” who checked out that the signals, lights, wheels, engine and doors were in order. This took maybe 45 seconds in total. The freeway of cars then narrowed down to one lane so that they could straddle the pit and have the undercarriage looked at, step two. It was a mad jostling to position the cars (if cars can jostle each other) in the one queue. Once the cars had been run through the pit, they were parked in the area to await someone to drive them round to their waiting owners at the gate, hence the completion of step three. Just as we approached the pit, we were stopped to wait for the inspectors to clear out the waiting cars. That took another 45 minutes or so as the hot, hot Namibian sun climbed higher in the sky.

When we did get our car over the pit, the inspector indicated that we had a bit of an oil leak that needed repair. We then had to park the car and wait yet again until the lot was cleared. The young lady who drove our car around tore off the bottom of the form and handed it back to us so that when we returned, they’d be able to locate the original form to which the stub had been attached and we’d not have to go through the entire process again. She put the form in a drawer of one of those plastic stacker organizers. Nothing was entered into a computer, so we hope that they will still have the documentation when we return. We won’t be holding our breath on that one.

Soooooooooo, Reid’s going to the mechanic today who will hopefully be able to correct the leak in a timely enough fashion for Reid to report back to NaTiS to complete the retest. Retests are only performed from 8-9 a.m. and 1-2 p.m. Ahhh Africa!

We’re trying to maintain a sense of humor about all of this, but sometimes it’s just not funny. My neighbor who is of Afrikaaner origin says one day, she’s going to get tired of laughing and have to move out of Africa. It’s really a good thing we got started early in this endeavor because it’s taking weeks and weeks just to make a simple car sale! When we bought it, it took weeks and weeks so we knew it wouldn’t be easy, but it does make me wonder about the people who really have to live here and try to function with that type of bureaucracy for things that should be so simple. I don’t even want to imagine what one has to do to buy a house around here! Well at the current 11.75% interest rate, most people don’t have to worry about that one…….

Visiting the Newspaper




Went to visit the newspaper printing plant. Our neighbor, Esther, who is an events photographer has lots of connections in the paper business. One of the reporters for the daily newspapers, The Republikien, took us around the plant and explained the process from gathering and collecting information and writing the articles to the actual printing. There are many newspapers in Windhoek, published in various languages: Afrikaans, German and English. Each caters to its particular language speaking clientele. However, most are published at the same plant we visited. This is quite refreshing given that in the States most local papers are being gobbled up by the likes of the USA Today crowd. Because so many papers are published at this one plant, the place never shuts down—it’s 24 hours of non-stop printing.
Ruan (the political reporter for the Republikien and Esther’s friend) showed us the presses, the prep area, the ad department, the writer’s pit, and the archives. It’s a full color operation and the newspapers produced are quite sophisticated in their layout, color and design. We also got to see the storage area where the huge rolls of paper are kept. It was a most interesting tour and worked out well with the unit of inquiry for Annie’s class—Get A Job. Who knows as much as Annie likes to peruse the paper, maybe she’ll be the next Nellie Bly.